Fez : Unveiling the Secrets of Moroccan Cuisine with a Cooking Class

♠ Posted by Jacline :)

A Culinary Journey in Fez: Unveiling the Secrets of Moroccan Cuisine with a Cooking Class

The air in Fez el-Bali, the ancient medina, thrums with a life uniquely its own – a symphony of sounds, from the distant call to prayer to the rhythmic tapping of artisan hammers, and a kaleidoscope of scents, where fragrant spices mingle with baking bread and blooming jasmine. It was here, amidst this captivating chaos, that I embarked on a culinary adventure that would become a highlight of my Moroccan travels: an authentic Cooking Class Fez. The anticipation was palpable. I wasn't just looking to learn recipes; I yearned to understand the heart of Moroccan cuisine, the stories behind the dishes, and the traditions passed down through generations. Stepping into Muhammad's traditional home, the warmth of the welcome, accompanied by the ritualistic pouring of sweet mint tea, instantly made me feel less like a tourist and more like a guest invited to share in something special. This wasn't just a class; it was an immersion, a delicious journey into the soul of Morocco, and an experience I wholeheartedly recommend to any culturally curious traveler visiting this imperial city.

What to Expect from Your Fez Cooking Class Adventure: From Souk to Table

A well-structured Cooking Class Fez is more than just a few hours in a kitchen; it's a multi-sensory experience that typically begins long before the first pot is stirred. It’s about understanding the ingredients, the culture, and the community that shapes this incredible cuisine. The best classes offer a holistic approach, often including a vibrant market tour and culminating in a joyful communal meal.

The Souk Expedition: A Feast for the Senses in Fez el-Bali

Our culinary journey, as with many authentic cooking classes in Fez, began with an exciting foray into the bustling heart of the medina – the local souk (market). As Muhammad, our gracious host and chef, explained, "To understand Moroccan cooking, you must first understand its ingredients, fresh from the source."

• Navigating the Labyrinth: Led by our guide, we plunged into the maze-like alleyways, a vibrant tapestry of sights, sounds, and smells. Stalls overflowed with pyramids of colorful spices, mountains of fresh vegetables glistening with morning dew, and baskets of olives in every shade. The air was thick with the aroma of freshly baked bread from communal ovens (ferrans) and the chatter of vendors and shoppers.
• Selecting Fresh Produce: We learned to pick the ripest tomatoes, the firmest eggplants, and the most fragrant herbs. Muhammad shared tips on how to identify quality, explaining the importance of seasonal ingredients in Moroccan cooking. We watched as he expertly selected a plump chicken – "freezer Fleming" as it sounded in the lively market banter, likely meaning a fresh, free-range bird – a key component for one of our tagines. (Inspired by transcript 01:31 - 02:53)
• The Spice Souk: A visit to the spice souk (Rahba Kedima, though names vary) is an experience in itself. We marveled at the vibrant hues of turmeric, cumin, paprika, ginger, and the precious saffron threads, learning about their uses and health benefits. The aroma alone was intoxicating. [Link to your Guide to Moroccan Spices]
• More Than Just Shopping: This market tour wasn't just about acquiring ingredients; it was a cultural immersion, a chance to observe daily life in Fez and interact with local vendors, offering a deeper appreciation for the food we were about to prepare.

The Warm Welcome: Mint Tea and Moroccan Hospitality

Upon returning from the souk, laden with our fresh bounty, we were welcomed into Muhammad's traditional Fassi home (or a dedicated riad kitchen). The first order of business, as is customary in Morocco, was the mint tea ceremony.

• A Ritual of Friendship: We gathered as Muhammad skillfully prepared the "Berber whiskey" – green tea brewed with copious amounts of fresh mint and sugar (though you can often request less sugar). The tea was poured from a height into small, ornate glasses, creating a frothy head, a sign of a well-made tea. (Inspired by transcript 01:31)
• Setting the Stage: This ritual is more than just a drink; it's a symbol of hospitality, a moment to relax, chat, and connect before the cooking begins. It perfectly set the tone for the collaborative and friendly atmosphere of the class.

Hands-On Preparation: The Heart of Your Cooking Class Fez

This is where the real fun begins! Aprons on, we gathered around the large kitchen space, ready to get our hands dirty under the patient guidance of our chef and his assistants.

• Learning Essential Techniques: We weren't just following recipes; we were learning fundamental Moroccan cooking techniques. A memorable moment was learning to cut onions "the special way," as our chef demonstrated, a swift, precise method perfect for tagines. (Inspired by transcript 05:42) We also learned how to prepare a rich, flavorful tomato sauce from scratch, a base for many dishes.
• Crafting Classic Main Dishes:
  • Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons and Olives: A star of Moroccan cuisine! We learned how to marinate the chicken in a fragrant blend of spices, including ginger, turmeric, and saffron, and how to layer the ingredients in the conical tagine pot for slow, even cooking. The preserved lemons, with their unique salty, tangy flavor, and the savory olives are key to this iconic dish. (Partially inspired by transcript 06:55 "chicken with Beijing" - likely a misinterpretation of this classic)
  • Kefta (Meatball) Tagine with Eggs: Another beloved classic. We mixed minced meat (often lamb or beef, as suggested by "half-kilo landfills" in the transcript, likely referring to ground meat) with spices, herbs like parsley and cilantro, and finely chopped onions to form flavorful meatballs. These were then simmered in a rich tomato sauce, with eggs cracked directly into the bubbling sauce towards the end of cooking. (Inspired by transcript 16:36)
• Creating Vibrant Moroccan Salads: Moroccan meals often begin with an array of colorful cooked and fresh salads.
  • Taktouka (Roasted Pepper and Tomato Salad): We learned the traditional method of "warming the skin" of bell peppers directly over a flame or on a hot surface, then placing them in a plastic bag to steam, which makes peeling them a breeze. (Inspired by transcript 19:28) These roasted peppers were then chopped and cooked with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and spices.
  • Zaalouk (Smoked Eggplant Salad): Similar techniques were applied to eggplants, roasting them to achieve a smoky flavor before mashing them with tomatoes, garlic, and spices.
  • Other Salads: The transcript mentioned "chili Maria" and "Daniel" (transcript 22:26), which might be local names or specific creations of the class. Typically, you might also learn to make a simple carrot salad with orange blossom water or a cucumber and tomato salad.
• The Magic of Spices: Throughout the preparation, the importance of Morocco's "famous spices" (transcript 09:36) was emphasized – not just for flavor, but for aroma and color. We learned how to balance them for optimal taste.

Mastering the Art of Tagine Cooking

The conical earthenware tagine pot is central to Moroccan cuisine, and learning to use it correctly is a key part of any authentic Cooking Class Fez.

• Slow and Gentle: Our chef explained that the magic of the tagine lies in its slow, gentle cooking process, which allows flavors to meld beautifully and meats to become incredibly tender. The unique shape of the lid helps to circulate steam, keeping the dish moist. (Inspired by transcript 10:41 "Rajan is special" - likely referring to the Tagine pot itself)
• Layering Flavors: We learned the art of layering ingredients – onions at the bottom, then meat, then vegetables – to ensure even cooking and maximum flavor infusion.

The Importance of Presentation

As our dishes neared completion, our chef reminded us, "The presentation also important right now today." (Inspired by transcript 12:00) We learned how to artfully arrange the tagines and salads, often garnishing them with fresh herbs, olives, or a sprinkle of toasted almonds, making the final dishes as visually appealing as they were aromatic.

The Communal Feast: Savoring Your Creations

The culmination of our efforts was, of course, sitting down together to enjoy the magnificent feast we had collectively prepared. Sharing the meal with our fellow "student chefs" and our gracious hosts was a joyous and rewarding experience, filled with laughter, conversation, and a deep sense of accomplishment. The flavors were even more vibrant knowing the love and effort that went into each dish.

Where to Stay in Fez: Riads and Hotels for Your Culinary Base

Choosing the right accommodation in Fez can enhance your overall experience, especially if you're planning to take a cooking class, many of which are hosted in traditional homes or riads within the old medina.

Riads in Fez el-Bali (Old Medina): Authentic Immersion

• Pros: Staying in a riad (a traditional Moroccan house with an interior courtyard) offers an unparalleled authentic experience. You'll be in the heart of the ancient city, close to souks, historical sites, and often, your cooking class venue. Many riads are beautifully restored, offering stunning architecture, peaceful courtyards, and rooftop terraces with panoramic views. Personalized service is common.
• Cons: The medina is a pedestrian-only labyrinth, so riads can sometimes be challenging to find initially (arrange for a pickup!). Noise from the bustling medina can sometimes filter in, though courtyards often provide a tranquil oasis. Some riads may have fewer modern amenities than large hotels.
• Ideal for: Travelers seeking cultural immersion, historical charm, and easy access to the heart of Fez. Many cooking classes, like the one described, are hosted within these traditional settings.

Hotels in the Ville Nouvelle (New City): Modern Comforts

• Pros: The Ville Nouvelle offers more contemporary hotels with modern amenities, wider streets, easier taxi access, and a range of international restaurants and shops.
• Cons: Lacks the historic charm and immersive cultural experience of the medina. You'll need to take taxis to reach Fez el-Bali for sightseeing and most cooking classes.
• Ideal for: Travelers prioritizing modern comforts, those who prefer easier navigation, or business travelers.

Tip: Many riads in Fez el-Bali either host their own cooking classes or can recommend reputable ones nearby. When booking your accommodation, inquire about cooking class options. [Link to your Best Riads in Fez Guide]

A Taste of Fez: What You'll Learn to Cook and Savor

A comprehensive Cooking Class Fez will introduce you to the pillars of Moroccan cuisine, focusing on fresh, local ingredients and the artful blending of spices.

Signature Dishes You Might Create

• Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons and Olives: A quintessential Moroccan dish, celebrated for its tender chicken and the unique zesty, salty flavor of preserved lemons, perfectly complemented by savory olives.
• Kefta (Meatball) Tagine with Eggs: Flavorful minced meat (lamb or beef) meatballs seasoned with herbs and spices, simmered in a rich tomato sauce, and often topped with eggs poached directly in the tagine.
• Various Moroccan Salads:
  • Taktouka: A vibrant cooked salad of roasted bell peppers and tomatoes, seasoned with garlic, olive oil, and spices.
  • Zaalouk: A smoky and delicious cooked salad made from roasted or boiled eggplants, tomatoes, garlic, and spices.
  • Other common salads include carrot salad (often with orange blossom water and cinnamon) and fresh tomato and cucumber salad.
• Couscous: While perhaps not always prepared in shorter classes due to its lengthy steaming process, the principles of preparing a flavorful vegetable and meat stew for couscous might be covered.

Key Ingredients and Flavors of Fassi Cuisine

• Spices: The soul of Moroccan cooking. Expect to work with cumin, turmeric, paprika, ginger, saffron (the "red gold"), cinnamon, black pepper, and Ras el Hanout (a complex spice blend).
• Fresh Herbs: Cilantro (coriander) and parsley are used extensively. Fresh mint is essential for tea.
• Preserved Lemons: A unique Moroccan ingredient that adds a distinctive salty, tangy, and slightly fermented flavor to tagines and salads.
• Olives: Various types of olives are used, adding a savory depth.
• Argan Oil: While more common in southern Morocco, you might encounter culinary argan oil, known for its nutty flavor.
• Fresh Vegetables and Fruits: Tomatoes, onions, garlic, bell peppers, eggplants, carrots, courgettes, as well as seasonal fruits like oranges, pomegranates, and figs.

The Enduring Mint Tea Ritual

No Moroccan culinary experience is complete without understanding and partaking in the mint tea ritual. You'll not only drink it but may also learn about its preparation and cultural significance as a symbol of hospitality.

Getting to Fez and Navigating to Your Culinary Adventure

Fez is one of Morocco's major imperial cities and is well-connected, making it relatively easy to reach. Once there, navigating to your cooking class, especially if it's in the medina, requires a bit of planning.

Arriving in Fez

• By Air: Fez-Saïss Airport (FEZ) is located about 15 km south of the city center. It serves domestic flights and a growing number of international flights from Europe and the Middle East. Petit taxis and airport buses are available for transfer to the city.
• By Train: Fez is a major hub on Morocco's ONCF train network, with comfortable and reliable train services connecting it to cities like Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat, Tangier, and Meknes. The main train station (Gare de Fès) is located in the Ville Nouvelle.
• By Bus: Several reputable bus companies, including CTM and Supratours, offer long-distance bus services to Fez from across Morocco. The main CTM bus station is also in the Ville Nouvelle.

Getting Around Fez and Reaching Your Cooking Class

• Petit Taxis: Small red taxis (petit taxis) are common in Fez and are used for trips within the city limits. They are metered (ensure the driver uses the meter or agree on a fare beforehand). They can take you to the edge of the medina.
• Walking in Fez el-Bali: The old medina is a vast, pedestrian-only zone. Walking is the only way to explore its narrow, winding alleyways. It's an incredible experience but can be disorienting. Using a map (digital or paper) is helpful, but don't be afraid to get a little lost – it's part of the adventure!
• Finding Your Cooking Class: If your Cooking Class Fez is located within the medina, the organizers will usually provide clear instructions, a meeting point (e.g., a main gate like Bab Boujloud, or a well-known landmark), or arrange for someone to escort you. Confirm these details when booking. Muhammad's house, for instance, was nestled deep within the old medina, making the guided walk part of the experience.

Tip: For your first time navigating Fez el-Bali, consider hiring an official guide for a few hours to get your bearings, or use a GPS app with offline map capabilities. [Link to your Navigating Fez Medina Like a Pro article]

Travel Tips and Cultural Insights for Your Fassi Culinary Experience

To make the most of your cooking class and your time in Fez, a little cultural awareness and practical knowledge can go a long way.

Market Etiquette in the Souks

• Observation: Take your time to observe before jumping into purchases.
• Polite Haggling: Haggling is expected for many items (not usually fresh food like vegetables or bread at set prices, but common for crafts, spices in larger quantities, etc.). Approach it with a friendly attitude and a smile. It’s a negotiation, not an argument.
• Photography: Always ask for permission before taking photos of people or their stalls. Most will oblige, but some may prefer not to.

Dining Etiquette in Morocco

• Eating with Your Right Hand: If eating from a communal dish (common with tagines or couscous), traditionally only the right hand is used.
• Accepting Hospitality: Accepting mint tea is a sign of respect and friendship.
• "Bismillah": Muslims often say "Bismillah" (In the name of God) before starting a meal.

Language Basics for a Richer Interaction

• While French is widely spoken in Fez, and English is understood in tourist areas, knowing a few basic Moroccan Arabic (Darija) phrases will be appreciated:
  • Salam Alaikum: Hello / Peace be upon you
  • Wa Alaikum Salam: Reply to Salam Alaikum
  • Shukran: Thank you
  • La shukran: No, thank you (useful for politely declining offers in the souk)
  • Afak / Min Fadlik: Please
  • Bnin: Delicious! (Perfect for complimenting your cooking class creations)

The True Value of a Cooking Class in Fez

Participating in a Cooking Class Fez is about so much more than just learning recipes. It’s a profound cultural immersion:

• Connection with Locals: You get to interact with local chefs and hosts like Muhammad, gaining insights into their daily lives, traditions, and passion for food.
• Understanding Ingredients: The market tour provides a deeper appreciation for the fresh, seasonal produce and the importance of spices.
• Hands-on Learning: You acquire practical skills and techniques that you can take home with you.
• Shared Experience: Cooking and eating together fosters a sense of community and shared joy.

Safety in Fez el-Bali

Fez el-Bali is generally safe, but like any bustling ancient city, it's wise to be aware of your surroundings.

• Stick to well-lit main paths at night if unsure.
• Be mindful of your belongings in crowded areas.
• Using an official guide for your first exploration can be helpful to avoid getting lost and to deter unsolicited offers from unofficial guides.

Conclusion: Taking Home the Flavors and Memories of Fez

My day spent at the Cooking Class Fez was more than just an educational experience; it was a heartwarming journey into the essence of Moroccan culture and hospitality. From the vibrant chaos of the souk to the focused, joyful energy in Muhammad's kitchen, and finally, to the immense satisfaction of savoring the dishes we had poured our efforts into – every moment was a delight. The aroma of simmering tagines, the laughter shared over chopping vegetables, the pride in presenting a beautifully garnished salad – these are the sensory memories that linger. I left not only with a handful of authentic recipes and new culinary skills but with a deeper understanding of Fassi life and a profound appreciation for the generosity and warmth of its people. The true souvenir from this experience isn't just the ability to recreate a perfect chicken tagine at home, but the rich tapestry of memories and the genuine human connection forged over a shared love for food. If you seek an authentic, engaging, and utterly delicious way to connect with the soul of Morocco, look no further than a cooking class in the ancient, magical city of Fez.

Are you ready to embark on your own culinary adventure in Fez? Have you taken a cooking class in Morocco, or is it high on your travel wish list? Share your favorite Moroccan dishes, cooking class experiences, or any questions you have in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you! And if this guide has inspired your journey, please feel free to share it with fellow food-loving travelers.

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FAQ: Your Fez Cooking Class Questions Answered

Q1: How long does a typical cooking class in Fez last?
A: Most cooking classes in Fez, especially those that include a market tour, last approximately 4 to 6 hours. This usually includes time for the souk visit, hands-on preparation of several dishes (typically a tagine, salads, and sometimes bread or dessert), the cooking time, and finally, enjoying the meal you've prepared.

Q2: Do I need any prior cooking experience to join a Cooking Class Fez?
A: Not at all! Fez cooking classes cater to all skill levels, from complete beginners to more experienced home cooks. The chefs and instructors are typically very patient and provide clear, step-by-step guidance. The emphasis is on learning, having fun, and enjoying the cultural experience.

Q3: What is the average cost of a cooking class in Fez?
A: The cost can vary depending on the duration, the number of dishes taught, whether a market tour is included, and the reputation of the school or host. Generally, you can expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $100 USD per person. Luxury riads might offer more expensive, exclusive classes. It's always a good idea to check what's included in the price (e.g., all ingredients, meal, refreshments, recipe booklet).

Q4: Are vegetarian or vegan options available in Fez cooking classes?
A: Yes, many cooking classes in Fez are happy to accommodate dietary restrictions, including vegetarian and vegan preferences. Moroccan cuisine has many naturally vegetarian dishes (e.g., vegetable tagines, various salads). It's crucial to inform the cooking class organizers of your dietary needs when booking so they can plan the menu accordingly.

Q5: What is the best way to book a reputable Cooking Class Fez?
A: You can book through various channels:

• Directly with Riads: Many riads offer their own classes or partner with local chefs.
• Online Travel Agencies (OTAs): Platforms like Viator, GetYourGuide, or Airbnb Experiences list numerous Fez cooking classes with reviews.
• Local Recommendations: Ask for recommendations from your hotel, official tourist offices, or fellow travelers.
• Dedicated Cooking Schools: Some establishments specialize solely in cooking classes. Look for those with good reviews and clear course outlines. [Link to your Top Rated Fez Cooking Schools Review]

Read reviews and compare what's offered before booking to find the best fit for your interests and budget.

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Unveiling the Magic of Morocco: Your Ultimate Travel Guide

♠ Posted by Jacline :)

Morocco, a land where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern allure, beckons travelers from across the globe. From the golden dunes of the Sahara Desert to the bustling souks of Marrakech, this North African gem offers a tapestry of experiences that cater to every type of adventurer. Let's embark on a journey through the best Morocco attractions and discover why this country should top your travel bucket list.

Sahara Desert: A Journey into the Heart of Morocco

Imagine yourself atop a camel, swaying gently as you traverse the endless sea of sand dunes. The Sahara Desert experience is the crown jewel of Morocco tourism highlights. As the sun sets, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, you'll feel as though you've stepped into another world.

"The silence of the desert is deafening, yet it speaks volumes to the soul." - A traveler's reflection

Marrakech: Where History Meets Modernity

No Morocco travel guide is complete without mentioning Marrakech. The city's iconic Djemaa el-Fna square comes alive at night with storytellers, musicians, and food vendors. Lose yourself in the labyrinthine souks, where the air is heavy with the scent of spices and leather.

Must-Do in Marrakech:

• Haggle for treasures in the souks

• Visit the stunning Koutoubia Mosque

• Relax in a traditional hammam

Coastal Charm: Essaouira's Breezy Allure

For a change of pace, head to the coastal city of Essaouira. Known for its laid-back vibe and windy beaches, it's a favorite among surfers and those seeking respite from the inland heat. Wander through the blue-and-white medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and savor freshly caught seafood by the harbor.

Fez: A Step Back in Time

History buffs will fall in love with Fez, home to the world's oldest university and a medina that seems frozen in time. Navigate the narrow alleyways, visit ancient madrasas, and witness artisans practicing centuries-old crafts.

Atlas Mountains: Adventure Awaits

For the adventure travelers, the Atlas Mountains offer a playground of possibilities. Trek through Berber villages, ski in Oukaimeden during winter, or simply marvel at the breathtaking landscapes.

Authentic Moroccan Experiences

To truly immerse yourself in Moroccan culture, consider these unique experiences:

1. Camel Treks: There's no better way to experience the Sahara than on the back of a dromedary.

2. Cooking Classes: Learn to prepare tagine and couscous from local experts.

3. Berber Village Stays: Connect with indigenous communities and experience their way of life.

4. Riad Accommodation: Stay in traditional Moroccan houses with interior gardens for a taste of luxury and authenticity.

Tailored Moroccan Adventures

Morocco caters to all types of travelers:

• Family Vacationers: Explore kid-friendly beaches and engage in cultural activities suitable for all

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Morocco desert tours

♠ Posted by Jacline :)

Morocco Desert tours for your best holiday in Morocco

Do you want to easily book a Morocco desert tours in Morocco now? Then you have come to the right place for adventures. We at morocco desert touts specialize in organizing Safari and adventures tours across Morocco desert.

Spend the day at Marocains Oasis or perhaps go four-wheel driving/quad bike riding in the sand dunes. Maybe ride a camel with the Bedouin people.
Explore the stunning reality of Morocco desert and the amazing landscapes in the Great Sand Sea and the Desert.
Discover the secrets of Merzouga and the other Moroccan desert oases. Also You can tailor your Morocco desert tours with a visit to Fes or Marrakech.
Follow the links below for a closer look at desert safari tours in Morocco.

We came back from one amongst the oldest Sahrawi families who support us with all the secrets of the traditional and historical Morocco Desert tour, serving to us to stay one amongst the most far-famed & experienced tour guides on the desert roads! we've the simplest instrumentality and provides permitting us to hide your wants no matter they're. we've the best groups that co-operate with one another to provide you the best quality and most complete service. With us you will get pleasure from some of the freshest, healthiest and most delicious food grilled over the fireplace. you will love it!

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Morocco desert tours from Marrakesh

♠ Posted by Jacline :)

Morocco desert tours from Marrakesh

Beyond Marrakesh, T+L discovers a new generation of hoteliers attracting intrepid travelers to Morocco’s golden desert, towering mountains, and windswept coast.
You’d have to have been living on another planet for the past half-decade not to have clocked the rise and rise of the Red City, Marrakesh. While five-star resorts have proliferated right up to the walls of the 1,000-year-old medina, inside them, along its chiaroscuro labyrinth of alleys and lanes, chic and unique riads have upturned and elevated paradigms of Moroccan design and service. Urbane and luxurious, Marrakesh now feels like a place where there’s nothing—or close to nothing—you can’t have.

Which is why the places to look for the real Morocco often lie far from the burnished suites and buzzing restaurants of this city on the plain. Striking out for the farther reaches of the country is rewarded with unique takes on traditional hospitality, both new and timeless. They can be found deep in the southernmost region, where ungenerous stone begins to surrender to the saffron-gold sands of the Sahara; or high among the towering Atlas, where Berber culture has its oldest and still strongest roots, and brilliant colors and tribal traditions flourish amid sometimes indescribably severe natural beauty; or along Morocco’s coast, whose whitewashed, fortified villages reflect both European colonial history and Islamic mystery.

Far below the historic Berber stronghold of Zagora, in the Drâa valley, where only the faintest tire-tread marks indicate your path, my guide and I speed in our Toyota 4Runner past a scene of cinematic emptiness, shaded in the non-tones of the desert. After an hour’s drive from the town of M’hamid, we reach, of all things, a schoolhouse, set on a small rise; here, a 4 x 4 awaits to shepherd me to Erg Chigaga Luxury Camp.

The brainchild of a transplanted English hotel executive, Nick Garsten, and a Berber desert guide named Moustafa Boufrifri, known to all as Bobo, the camp lies in the Erg Chigaga dunes, which climb to heights of 1,000 feet. The eight traditional caidal tents are connected by twin pavilions with ornate blackwork on their exteriors; inside, the walls are striped in bold red and cream, and thick pile rugs line the ground. Bathrooms have hand-worked metal vanities and hot- and cold-water buckets on teak platforms for hammam-style bathing (which uses only about one-tenth of the water required by a conventional shower—a crucial concession here, where it is the most precious commodity). Crimson wool runners crisscross the camp, from tent to tent and from dining to leisure pavilions; at night they’re banked with lines of glowing lanterns. Flanking one edge of the main area is a row of palm trunks, between which are suspended several hammocks—what Bobo charmingly refers to as Erg Chigaga’s “chill-out zone.”

Bobo himself—supremely competent and drily funny in five languages—lopes about in his cobalt-blue turban and djellaba, pouring shots of “Berber whiskey,” the ubiquitous and wickedly strong mint-tea blend. Two newer and more private tents, set about a 15-minute walk from the main camp, make excellent honeymoon destinations. The energy of Erg Chigaga seems prevailingly friendly and informal—a place to leaven the intrigue and high romance quotient of a desert bivouac with doses of extreme-ish activities (sand-boarding to the south; late-afternoon camel treks) and easy camaraderie around the fire after sunset.

About 20 miles from Erg Chigaga, in the taller dunes at the edge of the ancient Iriki lake bed, is an encampment conceived for those who seek desert romance of the writ-large, Lawrence of Arabia variety—and are willing to pay top dollar for it. The Camp of Dar Ahlam is a one-night experience as part of a longer stay at the elegant guesthouse of the same name in Skoura, some 200 miles to the northwest. First set up in 2007 as a single tent, it has expanded over the years, and can now accommodate as many as 30 people, but is still meant for only one group at a time. During my stay I am looked after by Ahmed, the camp manager, and a small staff. The camp reprises the narrative theme for which its namesake hotel (“house of dreams,” in Arabic) is known: my stay unspools in a series of mise-en-scènes straight from a Thesiger passage—or a Ridley Scott epic. My tent is of the simplest white canvas, lined in sisal and furnished with a low wooden bed and an embossed-brass table surrounded by kilim-covered cushions. At dusk, I sat ensconced in a Roorkhee chair in front of it, enjoying an aperitif (served on estate silver), surrounded by towering mounds of the Sahara, their summits shaped to paper’s-edge fineness by the wind. I had no inkling of the production happening one dune away, until Ahmed came to collect me for dinner; a trek over its crest revealed a tent surrounded by lanterns and, inside, lambent with the glow of multiple candelabras. A table was set opulently enough to please a cherifa. I was served a tangia, a meat stew prepared in a terra-cotta urn and slow-cooked overnight in a wood-fired oven. The next morning, just as daylight was tinting the sky, I emerged to find a small antique table, holding a caffettiere and a single porcelain cup, atop the dune directly in front of my tent. I sipped café crème and watched the sun rise, until Ahmed murmured at my shoulder; the dune behind me was set with another table, this one covered in sky-blue linens and surrounded by Berber rugs, laden with Moroccan breads, crêpes, and fresh preserves. Dar Ahlam’s camp is the desert sojourn as scripted by true experts of the genre, with the aesthetic acumen of set designers. The point of the place seems to be to immerse oneself in the scene.

Far to the north, in the rolling stone desert of Agafay—just under an hour’s drive from Marrakesh—there is an ambitious attempt to make such exoticism significantly more accessible. Scarabeo Stone Camp was opened by Belgians Vincent T’Sas and Florence Mottet—he a photographer, she a graphic designer—who had called Marrakesh home for nearly a decade before embarking on the Scarabeo project (the nine-tent Stone Camp is the first iteration; other sites will follow in 2014, near Agadir, on the Atlantic coast, and in the Saharan dunes).

Mottet has, by her own admission, taken a few pages from the Afro-style file of Catherine Raphaely, co-owner of the terminally chic Jack’s and San Camps, in Botswana’s Kalahari Desert. An antique globe sits atop a stack of vintage leather suitcases in my tent; in the reception pavilion a zebra skin graces the floor next to a folding campaign table piled high with well-thumbed expedition and photography books. Iron candle-lamps are suspended on posts; hammered-silver urns trickle fresh water into basins in the bathroom tents; Hardoy butterfly chairs have had their conventional canvas seats swapped out for striped burlap ticking. There is a deep visual satisfaction in the tonal purity of it all—white tents and bedding; bleached-wood settees; caramel-leather campaign chairs; light rush matting—that’s matched by the landscape: biscuit-colored hills that roll east to the foothills of the Atlas, stippled with silver-green eucalyptus; and beyond, the snowcapped peaks, dazzling ceaselessly in the hard light.

The guest experience, on the other hand, had a way to go when I visited. T’Sas and Mottet clearly possess taste in spades, but their attention seemed unduly focused on design over service. I spent much of my second day reading—not a bad thing, in this age of inescapable Wi-Fi and 4G—but Stone Camp offers numerous activities (paragliding; horse rides; hot-air ballooning), none of which I was asked about to gauge my interest. With its easy access, gorgeous position, and excellent value, Scarabeo Camp promises to be a genuine game-changer in the country, especially if they bring their service up a healthy few notches—and from a few accounts I’ve heard, that process is well under way.

Hotels in the High Atlas tend to emphasize the traditional: rammed-earth Berber constructions with thick walls, ample fireplaces, and small windows; robust layerings of Beni Ourain rugs and pom-pom-bedecked Berber blankets; lots of smoking braziers. So three-year-old Domaine Malika, set in a shallow, oval-shaped valley at the entrance to Toubkal National Park—home of Jebel Toubkal, at 13,767 feet the tallest peak in North Africa—came as something of a surprise. No leather poufs or ornate hammered-brass lanterns here: French owner Jean-Luc Lemée favors Bertoia chairs and chrome task lamps—not to mention high ceilings, terrazzo floors, and tall French doors that open onto concrete patios. The interiors nod to both Art Deco (a prevailing aesthetic of Morocco’s years as a French protectorate) and the groovy 1970’s (vintage stills from Lina Wertmüller films pepper the walls of my room, and my bed’s headboard is a marvelous repeat-circle design upholstered in chocolate-brown leather). In the lounge—complete with turntable and vinyl collection—the cheminées are Jetsons-like ovoid designs in brick, suspended from the ceiling. The monochrome-tiled pool, surrounded by willows and palms, is the place to repair to after a trek in the nearby N’Fiss valley or a visit to the weekly market in the village of Ouirgane. Manager Paul Goetz is the soul of the hotel, ebullient and deeply hospitable, with a sense of imminent celebration floating about him like a signature cologne. Under his watchful eye the kitchen turns out deft marriages of French and Moroccan cuisine, with abundant salads, produce, and jams from the Domaine’s own garden.

Domaine Malika isn’t for everyone. Most guests seemed to enjoy the quirky design and easygoing vibe (a stylish group of smiley Australians were patently delighted); but a few looked mildly confused, as if having mistakenly taken an unmarked turn off the road to Garden-Variety Kasbah Fantasy Fulfillment. The road they wanted was the one that leads directly to Kasbah Bab Ourika. Though built from the ground up in 2005, Bab Ourika toes the traditional Atlas line entirely. A local workforce erected the pisé (rammed-earth) complex, with palm-trunk ceilings and, here and there, the high, narrow meurtrière windows typical of Berber strongholds. By day, guests lunch in the shade of olive trees on a wide outdoor terrace; in the evening, the scene migrates to an interior courtyard, dressed in white linen and lit by candles and lanterns at night.

Bab Ourika’s 20 rooms are simple, with sturdy brick fireplaces; handwoven Berber textiles on chairs and pillows and hanging at the windows; and surprisingly modern bathrooms, their walls smoothly finished in the classic, slightly opalescent tadelakt plaster. The food, despite a strong advance street press, did not wow; the pool is perfectly fine, the garden suitably rambling and pleasant. Bab Ourika’s real ace in the hole is its setting, at the mouth of the Ourika valley, which affords staggering vistas of the Atlas Mountains: viridescent tilled plains graduate to blue-green, pine-covered foothills, which in turn are dwarfed by massive granite peaks—Toubkal, Oukaimeden, and an enfilade of others, all clearing the 10,000-foot mark—shearing up into the deep blue sky.

And then, for the truly dedicated sybarite, there is Morocco’s ne plus ultra of high-altitude luxury, courtesy of Richard Branson and his Virgin Limited stable of exclusive resorts. Kasbah Tamadot sits above the village of Asni, just a valley over from Domaine Malika. It was first renovated 25-odd years ago by Luciano Tempo, a Venetian interior designer who remade the decrepit Kasbah in his notable style, mixing antiquities and furnishings from Southeast Asia, India, and North Africa. Branson, who purchased Tamadot in 1998, saw no reason to ditch the carved Balinese doors and Rajasthani marble horses; pieces from Tempo’s private collection continue to be rotated into and out of the multiculti décor today.

Kasbah Tamadot is a study in ornamentation bordering on excess, but is eminently comfortable, and its interior opulence is tempered by an exterior architecture that has remained more or less true to the local, fairly austere vernacular. There is the option of staying in one of nine Berber tents, which march up the edge of the valley ridge where the Kasbah sits, and overlook a deep river canyon. Hard-core mountain camping this is not: while a few key encampment signifiers are present—draped canvas ceilings pitched to two points; rounded walls; raised wooden-platform floors—these have heat, air-conditioning, iPod docks, cozy sitting areas, and claw-foot tubs and rain-can showers in the very spacious bathrooms. Some have Jacuzzis built into their wide decks.

There is, in fact, not much hard-core mountain anything about Kasbah Tamadot, except the prodigiously scenographic surroundings. The gorgeous spa holds a full-size indoor pool (to complement the even larger outdoor one), and ornate hammams, in one of which I had the best black-soap scrub-downs in all my Moroccan travels. The new, Bordelais chef, Clement Baris, did stints in Paris and the U.K. before bringing his estimable talents here; the now-excellent cuisine hews to the Continental—probably a concession to Tamadot’s predominantly English clientele.

The picturesque fishing village of Oualidia, built around a wide lagoon midway up Morocco’s Atlantic coast, is a quiet, slightly out-of-time place. For much of the second half of the 20th century, the Casablancan and Marrakshi bourgeoisie decamped here in the summer, eschewing the urban fug for their modest white-and-blue vacation houses. Modest, that is, with the notable exception of the royal palace of King Mohammed V, a crumbling ruin at the lagoon’s edge—in its day the locus of much upper-class revelry, then fenced off for many years by the gendarmerie, and lately rumored to be in the crosshairs of at least one luxury-hotel developer.

Today, well-to-do Moroccans and some in-the-know Europeans come for the clean air, the sparkling, swimmable lagoon, and the pervasive sense of tranquillity; I walked the length of the beach just after dawn, and encountered only smiling young surfers and the cordial (if reserved) palace guards. They also come for the bird-watching and the oysters—the former, some of the best in North Africa, as are the latter, which are shucked tableside on the terrace at L’Hippocampe and a handful of other solid seafood restaurants in town.

London-based James and Czarina von Leyden fell for Oualidia’s charms over a decade ago. They purchased a family compound behind a sea-blue gate, composed of a three-bedroom villa, an additional outbuilding—which they converted into two compact one-bedroom apartments—and a large palm- and geranium-filled garden. Villa La Diouana, as it’s now known, is usually rented in its entirety, but the apartments, when available, are also offered on a two-night-minimum basis. Mine was simple but perfectly formed, with traditional Moroccan banquette sofas, vintage maps and photos adorning the walls, Bokhara rugs underfoot, and a skylit bathroom finished entirely in smooth ivory tadelakt. My terrace was dappled all day long in sun and shade cast by tall palms and eucalyptus bowing in the perennial Atlantic breeze. Abdillah, the von Leydens’ all-around top-notch house attendant, looks after the garden and the guests; his sister, Fatima, does the shopping and cooking (her kefta mkawra tagine will leave you hard-pressed to ever find one as delectable anywhere else on the planet). A small but elegant infinity pool juts nearly to the edge of the bluff, adjacent to the main villa’s living/dining room.

If you lean out from this pool terrace and look right, toward the northern end of the Oualidia lagoon, the low limestone tower and high arched windows of La Sultana Oualidia are just visible. A sister hotel to La Sultana, in Marrakesh—a warren of interconnected riads much loved by Americans, with some of the city’s warmest service—the 11-suite seaside resort is clean-lined and light-suffused, with a palette limited throughout many of its spaces to blue, white, and stone. The alfresco restaurant’s tables line the lagoon’s edge on a wide wooden deck; a jetty is reserved in the evenings for private dining, while beachside Berber pavilions erected in high season are the site of cocktail hour. The spa is a small revelation, a sleek and utterly modern interpretation of the traditional hammam.

Sleek and modern are not words readily associated with El Jadida, some 50 miles up the coast. A fortified city built by the invading Portuguese in the early 1500’s—christened Mazaga?, after its original Berber name, Mazaghan—the place is now a unesco World Heritage site. Its ramparts still delineate the mazelike quarter of the city, which holds the 450-year-old cistern and Church of the Assumption—the only tourist attractions of note here.

Indeed, despite a few strident proclamations of Oualidia being “like Essaouira 20 years ago,” and evidence of a nascent cultural- and tourism-development push, spearheaded (so say the whisperings on the ground) by no less a personage than His Majesty King Mohammed VI, there currently isn’t much at all geared to the less intrepid traveler.

But El Jadida has atmosphere in abundance, and it was this, presumably, that lured the owners of Marrakesh’s hugely popular Beldi Country Club to open a second hotel. L’Iglesia has given El Jadida its sleek, and its modern, and then some. The 14 stylish rooms and suites are spread across two monumental buildings: the Capitainerie holds reception, the restaurant, a small garden, and a handful of high-ceilinged suites. The other, a sprawling deconsecrated church, houses the remaining rooms and, in the former nave and apse, a soaring lounge, replete with Midcentury and Art Deco furniture. Walking into the Capitainerie from the mist-filled light and ancient stones of the street, history and heritage layer tangibly with contemporary design and smiling hospitality. In El Jadida there are no restaurants, few shops, and very little in the way of English spoken. But the country’s beauty, its reserved warmth, its endless intrigue, are alive and well.


Getting There
Most U.S. airlines connect through London or Paris before arriving at Menara airport in Marrakesh or Casablanca’s Mohammed V International. Hotels will arrange transfers from both airports.

Stay
Camp of Dar Ahlam Erg el M’hazil; maisonsdesreves.com; all-inclusive. $$$$$

Domaine Malika Ouirgane; domaine-malika.com. $

Erg Chigaga Luxury Camp Erg Chigaga; desertcampmorocco.com; all-inclusive. $$$$

Kasbah Bab Ourika Tnine Ourika; kasbahbabourika.com. $

Kasbah Tamadot Asni; kasbahtamadot.virgin.com. $$$$

La Sultana Oualidia Oualidia; lasultanahotels.com. $$

L’Iglesia El Jadida; liglesia.com. $$

Scarabeo Stone Camp Agafay Desert; scarabeo-camp.com. $$

Villa La Diouana Oualidia; ladiouana.com. $

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Definitive Travel Guide to Marrakesh

♠ Posted by Jacline :)

Marrakesh is on a roll as enterprising locals and expats reinterpret Moroccan traditions in fashion, architecture, food, and nightlife across the city.
Getting Around
The only way to navigate the medina is on foot. The lanes get crowded, so pay attention to valuables.

Petits taxis are perfect for short trips. Flagging one on the street is better than negotiating at a hotel queue, where drivers prefer to charge a set fee.

Grands taxis (usually Mercedes-Benzes) are better for longer journeys—out to the Palmeraie, say—and best booked in advance by your hotel. For half-day or day tours, Akaman employs multilingual drivers with a fleet of new vehicles, from Minis to Range Rovers.

Getting There: Royal Air Maroc flies direct from New York and Los Angeles to Casablanca. From there, catch a 40-minute flight to Marrakesh Menara Airport.

See + Do
Four spots not to miss, from a 1930’s garden to an over-the-top spa.

Jardin Majorelle: Designed in the early 20th century by the Orientalist painter Jacques Majorelle and acquired in 1980 by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, the 12-acre botanical gardens have colorful local flora, along with a small café, bookshop, and the Musée Berbère, with Berber art from Saint Laurent’s own collection. Rue Yves Saint Laurent.

Maison de la Photographie: This riad museum hosts rotating exhibitions of more than 6,000 original photographs, most of them quotidian scenes taken between 1870 and the 1950’s. The building, one of the medina’s tallest, houses a tea salon on its roof; stop for a steaming cup and take in the view of the city rooftops. 46 Rue Souk Ahal Fes.

Medersa Ben Youssef: One of the largest Koranic schools in Morocco, the 15th-century Ben Youssef (attached to the mosque of the same name) is a stunning confluence of carved cedar, zellij tile work, and ornate stucco. Book a private tour, which includes visits to the minuscule dormitory spaces where some of the 900-odd students lived. Place Ben Youssef.

Spa at The Royal Mansour Marrakech: Proprietor King Mohammed VI’s hotel is a showcase of Moroccan artisanship, and the 27,000-square-foot, white-filigree-and-glass spa is virtually a city in itself. The treatment suites have terraces and pools, and the beauty salon is a gleaming temple of white marble. Opt for a traditional hammam using the sumptuous Marocmaroc skin-care line. Rue Abou Abbas al Sebti; treatments from $115.

Shop
Our favorite treasure troves in the medina and beyond.

For table linens and sleepwear that merge traditional handiwork with a modern aesthetic, head to Al Kawtar (57 Rue Laksour). Fenyadi (219 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem) is stocked with tea sets, oil lamps, and a divine skin-care collection—all minimalist takes on traditional Moroccan design. Emerging local designers show at 33 Rue Majorelle (33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent): expect slinky silk-jersey playsuits and burlap tote bags stamped creatively with Berber motifs. Ignore the frosty reception at Moor/Akbar Delights (7 Rue des Vieux Marrakchis); the boutiques—two of the city’s most refined—merged earlier this year, but the slick, organic-fiber clothes are still the same. At L’Ourika Boutique (77 Daffa Warbaa, Souk Semmarine), the Tazi brothers cut Fassi embroidered djellabas and tunics to measure—and ship them worldwide. You could furnish your entire home at Mustapha Blaoui’s Trésors des Nomades (142-144 Bab Doukkala), chockablock with quality textiles, antiques, metalware, and ceramics. Swing by the Souk Cherifia (Sidi Abdelaziz, Dar el Bacha entrance), a warren of stylish independent traders, for delicate gold jewelry at Stephanie Jewels (No. 26), leather accessories at Lalla (No. 47), and streamlined hand-embroidered linens at La Maison Bahira (No. 15).

Eat
Sophisticated authentic fare and easy café lunches—here’s where to go now.

Le Jardin: The owner of the venerable Terrasse des Epices opened this shabby-chic garden café last spring. Guests sit at vintage tables and feast on casual staples, from salade niçoise to crisp, tangy Moroccan briouates (vegetable- or meat-stuffed phyllo triangles). 32 Souk El Jeld, Sidi Abdelaziz. $

Les Trois Saveurs: Housed in La Maison Arabe (the hotel owned by Italian nobleman Fabrizio Ruspoli), this lovely space, set under porticoes, serves faultless Moroccan dishes—the pastillas perfectly balance spicy-sweet and savory—plus pan-Asian specialties and French classics. 1 Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala. $$

Le Loft: Behind black-varnished shutter doors hides a fashionable newcomer to Guéliz. Le Loft serves bistro standards executed to perfection (not to mention a mean mojito). Le tout Marrakech table-hops in the dining room and on the front terrace. 18 Rue de la Liberté, Guéliz; 212-5/2443-4216. $$

A Palace for Every Palate
Palace restaurants are all about candlelit courtyards, Berber musicians, and heaping platters of food. Each has its loyalists: Dar Marjana (15 Derb Sidi Tair; $$$) and Dar Yacout ($$$) are in the top echelon, as is the newer and less pricey Le Tobsil ($$). Chef Moha Fedal updates the experience with lighter fare in Pierre Balmain’s former riad at Dar Moha (81 Rue Dar el-Bacha; $$$).

Restaurant Pricing Key
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150

Stay
The five-star arrivals, the perennials, and our picks of the chicest (and best-value) riads.

Four Seasons Resort: Those who claim it lacks authenticity miss the point: this clean-lined resort offers discrete adults’ and kids’ pools; a boutique curated by top local stylist Laetitia Trouillet, who stages pop-up “souks” at the hotel; and flawless service. Hivernage. $$$$

La Mamounia: The grande dame’s Jacques Garcia–designed renovation ushered in ornate, haute marocain décor—plus three private riads, a subterranean spa, and a buzzy restaurant. Medina. $$$$

Palais Namaskar: Whimsical best describes this 12-acre fantasyland, where Indian and Moorish architecture collide and enormous suites and villas have contemporary Italian furnishings. Palmeraie. $$$

Riad Abracadabra: Don’t be deterred by the name; inside, you’ll find an inviting indoor-outdoor lounge, rooms lined with novels and vintage design magazines, and a charming roof terrace. Medina. $

Riad Joya: A stone’s throw from the city’s main square, Djemaa el-Fna, Joya’s seven-room house is all about sleek neutrals (not a gold-leather pouf in sight) and a warm, supremely capable staff. Mouassine. $$

Riad Vanessa: This intimate, simply stylish gem has four en suite bedrooms and a courtyard strewn with deep sofas and kilims. There’s also a sitting room with a fireplace. Medina. $

The Selman: Another Jacques Garcia chef d’oeuvre, the Selman’s modest two-story dimensions belie generous rooms in rich purple and yellow silk velvets. The owner’s Arabian stallions graze in immaculate paddocks next to the open-air Le Pavillon restaurant. Agdal. $$

Taj Palace: From the mammoth scale to the extravagant interiors, the Taj seems destined to divide opinion. Rooms have rosy tadelakt walls hung with beveled Indian mirrors and balconies overlooking what is surely Africa’s biggest pool. Palmeraie. $$$

Hotel Pricing Key
$ Less than $200
$$ $200 to $350
$$$ $350 to $500
$$$$ $500 to $1,000
$$$$$ More than $1,000

Local Take
Three Marrakesh insiders open their style files.

Maryam Montague
Human rights advocate, blogger, owner of Peacock Pavilions hotel

My work takes me all over the Middle East and Africa, but Marrakesh is my home. I bring visitors to Fadila El Gadi (by appointment only), which makes one-of-a-kind women’s and men’s clothing. Beldi Country Club is great for a casual poolside lunch. Pepe Nero opened last year in an old riad in the medina—the chef, Khalid Robazza Essafa, trained at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy.

Fabrizio Bizzarri
Owner, Ministero del Gusto gallery

My partner, Alessandra Lippini, and I opened our gallery in Mouassine in 1998; we restore vintage furniture and host art installations. Back then, the expat community was small. Galerie 127, in Guéliz, is owned by a Frenchwoman; she represents international and Moroccan photographers. Another one to watch is Topolina (134 Dar El Bacha; 212-6/5134-5795). Designer Isabelle Lallemang buys djellabas and rugs and “upcycles” them with silk, lace, or tassels to make wraps, shoes, and bags.

Redha Moali
Founder, Dar al-Ma’mun, and owner, Fellah Hotel

I run an international center that promotes the cultural scene in town; we have lectures and performances throughout the year. A wonderful place for tea close to Djemaa el-Fna is Terrasse des Epices. The Bahia Palace is a real treasure that showcases Marrakshi-Andalusian architecture, popular in the late 19th century. In Guéliz, I go to Le Kechmara, owned by two Frenchmen, who often organize concerts. Locals gather there for lunch or cocktails.

Before You Go
Stories and sounds to get you in the mood.

Hideous Kinky: Esther Freud’s novel, inspired by her itinerant 1970’s childhood, is brought to life in the film starring Kate Winslet and Franco-Moroccan superstar Said Taghmaoui.

Caravane: British music producer Nick Wilde compiles the country’s best musicians and lays them down in all their traditional (and modern-remix) glory.

The Voices of Marrakesh: Nobel winner Elias Canetti’s 1968 book encompasses the mayhem of the medina, the storytellers of Djemaa el-Fna, and the rituals of the city’s many cultures.

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